It’s hard to remember now, but it was during the Ready-to-Wear show last February that the fashion world came to know about coronavirus, before it was already declared a global epidemic.
At new york fashion week Ripple effect It began when some models and designers were abandoned in China. By the time the travel style landed in Circus Milan, the temperature was being checked; By the end of those collections, Giorgio Armani Had decided to hold his show in an empty auditorium and present it to the audience in his hotels.
In Paris, masks and hand sanitizer physical. The parties were canceled. People started to panic and left early. we all know what happened next.
Yet here we are a year later, and, against all expectations, the show is still running. like.
The fashion week calendar, the four-city hamster wheel that rotates from New York to Milan to Paris, is upheld, though a lot of brands have stopped and decided to run at their own pace. We are all watching from our kitchen table – everyone in the front row! – Taking notes for the time we go through hibernation. At some point, eventually, we’ll be ready again.
Which means that Virtual Fashion Month may be the ultimate DIY streaming series right now: a little escapism, a bit of high-concept hue, a bit of documentary realism, “Get the Look.” Here you need to know to plan your viewing schedule.
Are all shows virtual? what does that even mean?
Some designers are still hoping for some kind of in-person experience for some locals – or at least one audience from their own working rooms – and others playing it close to the vest. But they all recognize the epistemic reality and accept the fact that even though few real people manage to deliver on set, a show needs to be a digital experience for the vast majority.
That means anything from a mini-movie to a cartoon to a straight catwalk parade filmed in a largely empty space, posted on all brands’ websites and social media feeds, as well as various fashion Hosting on the home page for weeks. These films can last anywhere from three to 20 minutes. Honestly, however, the location of the dessert is about five to seven minutes; More than that, and your coffee machine is terrifying.
Nevertheless, if multiple models are involved, that seems risky. How do we know they are Kovid-safe?
Pretty much every video now ends (or begins) with the message: “All security protocols have been observed while filming this show.” This means (they say) testing, masking, social disturbances and so on. And despite the fact that some shows last season saw in-audience viewers it was hard to avoid the feeling of free-floating anxiety – maybe due to the angle involved, they looked closer together – no super key There has been no news – the fashion show since last March, when no one knew what was going on.
But if collections are already filmed, and are available to watch forever, doesn’t that mean the whole idea of a “show calendar” is meaningless?
Well … yes. The calendar exists for those who are interested in whether they want to see what a designer has created. (Those people exist.) It also creates some sort of internal structure for the industry (deadline!). Then, the calendar too, is a way of marking the field for the various industry bodies that are hoping, really hoping that when the epidemic ban loosens, they will once again go back to Things Things Can.
Can we really go back sometime?
that remains to be seen. Too many brands have seized the moment to declare independence from the cycle of harsh fall-winter and spring-summer and “be right for them.” For example, Gucci and Bottega are escaping from the Veneta Milan show, as they did last season, and are absent from almost all the big names as well as the Boozest – New York “week,” which is actually like three days is. Starting February 14. But then Prabal Gurung is releasing photos of his collection on the 12th, and Prozoa Scholler and Christian Siriano are showing on the 18th, overlapping with some London designers. Oh please help.
Back up: What do you mean New York Fashion Week is only three days?
The word “week” has always been more symbolic than real. (Paris Fashion Week, for example, used to be nine days long, while London was five years old.) It is now more perfect as Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Tory Burch, for some uncertain future. Exit from group dates. Ditto Pyer Moss, while Telfar has the system called No Said as a whole, and Thom Browne and Altuzarra attended the Paris show. This means that New York Fashion Week has been transformed into something that looks like a showcase for the new brand. This has inspired a lot of “New York is dead” stories, though the change may not be such a bad thing, as such up-and-comers were usually squashed under the elephant-shaped shadow of the establishment .
As a result, Tom Ford is one of the few global names still on the New York Fashion Week schedule, and the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America created “The American Collections”, which includes, but is not limited to, NYFW After a few weeks of its release, American brands are showing in Paris, and American brands, which have all the dates to show any American brand… and wherever.
Okay, this is seriously confusing.
agreed. But there are still things to see!
So what should I look for this fashion season?
First, we will see whether there has been much progress on the diversity front after the industry has accepted its commitments to systemic racism and change. Secondly, we will learn that the fluctuations with the recent fluctuations of many designers symbolize a real change or only a passing trend.
Finally, in New York, there is discussion around Macy Villain (designed by Macy Schloss, first recipient of Kanye West’s Fashion Incubator grant) and No Seso (a creative collective led by Pierre Davis, the first trans to show on the official Women became schedule in 2019). And you will be surprised how Collina Strada is the most fun Last season video.
In London, people are excited about the introduction of Harris Reid, aka the digital runway that the designer made the tulle skirt Harry Styles wore for his Vogue cover shoot, and which was too dramatic for a costume Is known for approach. In Milan, Kim Jones will unveil her first ready-to-wear collection for Fendi. Then, in Paris, Gabriella Hurst Chloe will unveil her vision for the next stage. And after a quiet rendition of last season and a big Instagram appearance, Matthew williams For Givenchy will host its first full-court dual-gender show.
Also, Jonathan Anderson is not surprised at what he will do after the show-in-box for his own brand, the show-on-a-wall for Louvay and the recent men’s wear / pre-performance show . Book (and a shirt).
Show-on-a-building? Show-in-test-tube? Show as Cake? It will give new meaning to consumption anyway. tune in.